- Indicative price
- Priced per job
- send a photo for a fixed quote
- Category of work
- Non-licensed
- carried out directly, condition permitting
- How common
- Specialist
- across Guildford and Surrey

On this page
An asbestos cement cold water tank in the loft is one of those things nobody thinks about until a heating engineer sticks his head through the hatch and says something.
They were standard from the 1950s to the mid 1980s in houses with a gravity-fed system: a large storage tank in the roof space feeding the hot water cylinder and the taps. Plastic replaced them once moulded tanks became cheap, so anything still in place is likely to be original.
Recognising one
Thickness is the giveaway. Asbestos cement tanks have walls around a centimetre thick and they are heavy even empty. The surface is a rough, chalky grey, often with a scale line where the water has sat for decades, and the top edge is frequently rolled or thickened.
Compare that with the alternatives. A plastic tank is thin and gives when you press it. A galvanised steel tank is rigid but thin-walled, with riveted or folded seams and rust at the waterline.
The other clue is what is attached. These tanks are usually fed by a brass ball valve of the same era, sit on timber bearers across the joists, and have a wooden or asbestos board lid that has warped.
Why they usually come out with something else
Very few people remove a water tank as a standalone job, and there is a good reason for that.
A gravity system with a loft tank is being replaced by a combination boiler or an unvented cylinder in most cases, which makes the tank redundant. That is when it gets noticed and that is when it should go: the plumber wants it out, the system is being drained anyway, and the loft is already being worked in.
The other common trigger is a loft conversion or a loft boarding job. Somebody is about to be moving around up there with materials, and a brittle tank on bearers is exactly the thing a foot goes through.
Doing it alongside other work is also cheaper. A large part of the cost of a small job is the visit, so combining it with pipe lagging or an old flue at the same address makes far more sense than three separate mornings.
What happens on the day
The tank is drained first, which sounds obvious and is worth stating because a full tank cannot be moved safely and dragging a part-full one is how they crack.
The loft is prepared. Sheeting goes down along the route from the tank to the hatch, the hatch surround is protected, and where the loft is unboarded a working platform goes across the joists. Nobody works off joists alone next to a brittle object.
Fittings are disconnected and the tank is lifted clear of its bearers whole. It gets wrapped in situ rather than after it is moved, because the moment of most risk is the carry, not the lift.
Where the tank will not pass through the hatch it is cut down, wet, with hand tools rather than anything powered. A disc cutter on asbestos cement in a confined roof space is about the worst combination available.
Then out through the house, down the stairs, into the vehicle, and away on a registered carrier to a permitted site. You get the hazardous waste consignment note.
The bearers, the lid if it is timber, and the old ball valve go out as ordinary waste. If the lid turns out to be asbestos board rather than timber, which happens, it goes with the tank.
What replaces it
Usually nothing, because the whole point of the exercise is that the system no longer needs storage in the roof.
Where a gravity system is being kept, a modern plastic tank of the same capacity drops onto the same bearers. Those are light enough that the constraint stops being the hatch and starts being whether you can get the lid on.
The one thing worth doing while the space is open is looking at the insulation around the pipework that fed the tank. Old pipe insulation is a different material with a different legal status, and finding it while the loft is already accessible saves a second visit.
Around Guildford
Loft tanks track the age of the heating system rather than the age of the house, which makes them slightly unpredictable.
The 1930s to 1970s stock at Burpham, Merrow, Onslow Village and Westborough is where most survive, particularly in houses that have had the same boiler since the 1980s. The post-war housing at Park Barn, Bellfields and Stoughton is similar, and blocks of flats from that period often had a communal arrangement with tanks in a shared roof space, which is a different job again and one with a Regulation 4 duty attached for whoever manages the building.
Houses that have already been converted to a combination boiler generally had the tank taken out at the time, so a period property is not automatically a candidate. It depends what has been done to the heating since.
We cover Guildford and the towns around it. The areas we cover page lists them.
Free, no obligation
Not sure what you are looking at?
Send a photo and a postcode. You get an indicative price back, usually the same day, and a straight answer on whether it is licensed work.
Straight answers
Common questions
How do I know if my loft tank is asbestos?
Look at the wall thickness and the weight. An asbestos cement tank has walls around a centimetre thick, a rough grey surface, and often a rolled or thickened lip around the top edge. A modern plastic tank is thin, flexible, and usually blue or black. Galvanised steel tanks exist too and those are rigid but thin, with visible rivets or seams. If you can flex the side with your hand it is not cement.
Is it dangerous sitting up there?
An intact cement tank full of water and left alone is low risk. The fibres are bound into the cement and nothing is disturbing them. Risk appears when somebody stands on the edge to reach something, drills it to fit a new fitting, or drops a foot through the ceiling next to it. That is why these usually get removed as part of other work rather than on their own.
Can it come out in one piece?
Usually, and that is the aim. A tank that comes out whole produces almost no dust. The limiting factor is the loft hatch. Where the tank is wider than the opening, which happens on older houses with small hatches, it has to be cut down, and that is done wet and under controlled conditions rather than with a disc cutter.
How much does it cost?
The price table in our brief has no published figure for tanks, so we do not quote a range we cannot stand behind. It is priced per tank once we have seen a photograph, and the things that move it are the size, whether it fits through the hatch, how far it has to be carried, and whether the loft is boarded. It is usually one of the cheaper jobs, and cheaper again if it is done alongside a boiler change or pipe insulation work.
Keep reading
Related work
- Asbestos Flue and Boiler RemovalCement flue pipes and old boiler panels taken out before a new system goes in.
- Asbestos Pipe Lagging RemovalPipe insulation is licensed work. We arrange a licensed contractor and handle the paperwork.
- Asbestos Waste Collection and DisposalAlready stripped it out? We collect, dispose and give you the consignment note.
Get a price for asbestos water tank removal
A photo and a postcode is enough to start. You get an indicative range back, usually the same day.
